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A visit to Ukraine. Included: a Lviv beer hall; a shaman in the Carpathian Mountains; the pilgrimage of Hassidic Jews to Uman; a Cold War missile base in Pervamaisk; a bridal agency in Kherson; the Livadia Palace in Yalta; Crimean War buffs in Sevastopol; the capital of Kiev; Chernobyl, site of the 1986 nuclear disaster.